On my first dive in Tobago a few years ago, I was stunned by the beauty of the coral reef; the colours of the stony corals and sponges, the gorgonians swishing with the waves and the multitude of playful fish careening about. After the dive, I was happily chatted away by the older divers who matter-of-factly told me that the reef I had seen that day was nothing compared to what it was like a few years before. Back then I was told, the reefs were covered in twice as much coral. So what happened to our coral reefs? Well a few things happened,...